You can buy cheap "vernier calipers", for a couple of dollars or so, in
"Chinese $2 shops" which are good enough for distinguishing between 9.5 mm
wheels (33") or 10.5 mm wheels (36"). You measure across the tread of the
wheel, not the flange. After a while you can tell by eye-balling them what
size is what.
Most North American rolling stock seems to have 33" wheels as standard,
whereas, I think I am correct in saying that most Australian rolling stock
has 36" wheels, although I know there are examples of smaller wheels in
Australia..
Wolf has given you excellent advice. One thing he didnt mention is axle
lengths. This is quite variable between manufacturers and even 0.5mm makes
a difference. It could mean the difference between the wheels falling out
every time you pick up the wagon, or the wheels being too tight (ever so
slightly) and causing the wagon to not roll freely. This applies if you are,
say, replacing plastic wheels with metal in a particular bogie. If you buy
the bogies and wheels as a complete set, they should be ok. Even then, a
bogie might not roll freely, because there is a little "dag"(a raised burr
as a result of manufacture) right on the end of the pinpoint of the axle. A
number of times I've found this, even with reputable suppliers like Steam
Era, and have corrected it by gently removing the burr with a fine abrasive
stone.
Would be interested to hear how you go with this project.
......................................Bill
Post by Wolf KirchmeirPost by AnthonyHELP!!
I have a Bachmann set and have some freight cars that wheels and bogies
missing.
How can I tell the difference between 33" and 36". Is there a way of
measuring them.
Yes, as Bill K. advises.
OTOH, you don't need to measure them. With very few exceptions, Bachmann
freight cars use 33" wheels. You buy wheel-sets by wheel size.
If trucks and couplers are missing, you can buy trucks with couplers
attached (but not from Bachmann), or trucks without couplers plus couplers
separately for body-mounting.
Post by AnthonyShould I get go with Kadee for my wheels, bogies and couplers or stay
with Bachmann.
Go with metal wheels (any brand will do). Any brand of knuckle couplers
with metal knuckle springs will do, too, just make sure they fit any
coupler boxes you may have, or buy sets complete with coupler boxes. Some
people swear that it's better to use a single brand of coupler, but I've
not found that to be a problem. You also need a coupler height gauge
(Kadee makes one), to ensure uniform and correct mounting height. This is
essential!
Post by AnthonyI would like to have them all the same so I would change the Bachmann if
I needed to
Well, you should have all care with truck-mounted couplers, or else all
cars with body-mounted couplers. You can mix brands, they will work just
fine with each other, but you may have to devise a method mounting the
trucks - that is the one area where we don't have standardisation yet,
unfortunately. (One of the blessings of having the National Model Railroad
Association is that they have worked to promote and maintain standards for
interchangeability. Thus we in Canada and the US don't need to limit
ourselves to one brand of anything.)
If you body mount couplers on these cars, you will also have to use a
mounting pad so that the coupler is at the correct height. I've found
plastic bag closures to be a good source for this. They come in a range of
thicknesses, one of which will be just right for a given car.
It's also important to add weight so that all the cars weigh close to the
same. Mixing light and heavy cars will cause trouble sooner or later. The
NMRA recommends 1oz plus 1/2oz for every inch of length, which works out
to 4-1/2oz for a 40ft boxcar. You don't have to follow this exactly, an
ounce more or less makes little difference, just be consistent.
I would however advise you to think seriously about whether it's worth
repairing train-set quality cars. Many Bachmann cars have excellent body
moldings, and are worth upgrading to metal wheels and body mounted
couplers, but others are not. It will cost you $4 or more to fit new
parts, plus your time. OTOH, upgrading cheap cars is a good way to develop
skills. And it feels good to convert junk into usable models. So do what's
most satisfying for you. ;-)
HTH
--
wolf k.